History
Bibi Graetz founded his eponymous winery in 2000 in Fiesole, Tuscany, overlooking Florence. Born into an artistic family, Graetz, a graduate of Florence's Accademia dell’Arte, transitioned from painting to winemaking with no formal training. Starting with a small 2-hectare vineyard at his family's Castello di Vincigliata, he expanded by renting old vineyards across Tuscany. In 2019, he transformed the historic Villa Aurora in Fiesole into a winery and family home, cementing his presence in the region.
Viticulture Philosophy
Graetz is dedicated to old vines, high-altitude sites, and native Tuscan varieties like Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Colorino. His estate manages one of Tuscany's largest collections of old vineyards, some over 100 years old, spread across sites like Lamole, Montefili, and Vincigliata. Emphasizing organic farming and minimal intervention, he prioritizes terroir expression through poor, stony soils and cooler, north-facing slopes to enhance acidity and elegance. On Isola del Giglio, he cultivates Ansonica on granite terraces, valuing the island's unique maritime terroir.
Winemaking Techniques
Graetz employs spontaneous fermentations with indigenous yeasts, manual punch-downs, and open-top barriques to maximize oxygen exchange and color fixation. His red wines, like Testamatta and Colore, are fermented without temperature control, using minimal new oak (2-3%) to preserve fruit purity. White wines, such as Testamatta Bianco, undergo initial stainless steel fermentation followed by 12 months in barriques on lees without malolactic fermentation. Each vineyard parcel is vinified separately, allowing complex blending for transparency and finesse.
Critics and Journalist Praises
Bibi Graetz's wines have earned high acclaim, with Testamatta and Colore regularly scoring in the high 90s from Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, and James Suckling. Critics praise their elegance and terroir-driven character. Owen Bargreen lauded the 2019 Colore Bianco as “the finest Italian white wine” tasted in years, scoring it 98. The 2021 Testamatta was noted for its “classic and bright” Sangiovese expression, with potential for long aging.
