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Bibi Graetz Soffocone Vincigliata 2022

Bibi Graetz Soffocone Vincigliata 2022

HK$390
HK$390
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Artistic, Expressive, and Captivatingly Pure

Named after the historic, sun-drenched hill in Fiesole where the artist-winemaker Bibi Graetz first launched his revolutionary vision, Soffocone di Vincigliata is an unapologetic, single-vineyard tribute to Tuscan heritage. Moving beautifully away from the heavy extraction or vanilla-laden oak styles of modern blends, the 2022 vintage handles a warm season with majestic, high-altitude poise. It bounds from the glass with a brilliant, highly distinctive bouquet of ripe red cherries, wild blueberries, dried violets, and graphite. It is a medium-bodied, remarkably succulent red wine that layers polished, savory tannins against a striking current of refreshing acidity.
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Style Profile at a Glance

Attribute Profile Scale
Body Medium-Bodied, Succulent & Fluid ●●●●●
Tannins Polished, Powdery & Savory ●●●●●
Sweetness Dry ●●●●●
Acidity High, Vibrant & Mouthwatering ●●●●●
Fruit Dark Cherry, Blueberry & Tart Pomegranate ●●●●●
Oak Sublimated (18 Months in Old 30hl Neutral Casks; Only 0.5% New) ●●●●●

Expert Tasting Notes & Estate Reputation

  • 94 Points – James Suckling: "Blueberries, minerals, violets and hints of graphite. Medium-bodied with very well-integrated tannins that give presence and beauty to it. Succulent and juicy. Polished, savory tannins add to the pleasure. Bright acidity, too. Drinkable now, but even better in a year or two."
  • 93 Points – Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (Monica Larner): "I have not tasted this Bibi Graetz wine since the 2014 vintage. Featuring his artwork on the front label (created when Bibi was a 23-year-old art student), the 2022 Soffocone di Vincigliata is all Sangiovese, mostly from his family's historic plots, both warm parcels and cooler parcels, near Fiesole in Vincigliata. This wine has made big improvements over the years. Showing a dark hue and extra concentration for the grape, it delivers blackberry, lead pencil and powdery tannins on the finish. It ages in oak for 18 months in Bibi's crazy hotel-turned-winery facility, but only 0.5% of the oak is new. The rest of the barrels are 20 years old or more. Bibi seeks oxygen exchange, and he vinifies his parcels separately. I asked him about coopers, but he says he is less interested in brands and uses a mix of barrels from all over."
  • The Maverick of Fiesole: Born into a family of artists, Bibi Graetz completed his formal training at Florence's Academy of Fine Arts before pivoting seamlessly into winemaking in 2000. Operating from a whimsical, converted luxury hotel—the Aurora in Fiesole—Bibi eschewed the mainstream Super Tuscan trends of planting Cabernet or Merlot, choosing instead to become an obsessive champion of old-vine, indigenous varieties. *Soffocone di Vincigliata* is named directly after the beautiful, steep hill where everything started for him. Adorned with artwork Bibi sketched when he was a 23-year-old student, this Cru selection represents a stunningly high-altitude, technical masterclass that bridges the uninhibited energy of his entry tiers with the serious, collectors' framework of his elite icon wines.

Highlights

  • 100% Sangiovese sourced exclusively from the historic, single-vineyard plots on the Vincigliata hill overlooking Florence.
  • Vines are rooted in ancient, rocky *galestro* clay-limestone soils, surrounded by dense forests that moderate night temperatures.
  • Fermented spontaneously with wild, indigenous vineyard yeasts in large, temperature-unregulated 30HL wooden casks.
  • Matured elegantly for 18 months in neutral wood barrels—relying entirely on old wood (less than 1% new oak) to prioritize pure varietal transparency and micro-oxygenation over oak flavors.

Tasting Notes

  • Appearance: Deep, brilliant ruby red with vibrant garnet and magenta tones at the rim.
  • Nose: Lifted, complex, and deeply perfumed, showing rich aromas of dark plum, marzipan, and wild blueberry, laced intricately with dried lavender, fresh violets, lead pencil graphite, and a hint of white peppered tobacco.
  • Palate: Dry, medium-bodied, and beautifully succulent. A juicy wave of red cherries and pomegranate compote floods the palate, instantly driven forward by an exceptionally bright line of acidity. The mid-palate has beautiful depth and concentration, framed seamlessly by polished, powdery, and savory tannins that carry into a long, mineral-laden finish marked by graphite and wild Mediterranean herbs.

Serving Suggestion

  • Temperature: Serve slightly cool at 15–16°C. Keeping it cellar-cool highlights the wine's vibrant floral aromas and preserves its bright, energetic structure.
  • Decanting: A brief 30-to-45 minute decant is highly recommended to let the youthful graphite and wild-yeast complexities expand completely. Beautifully constructed to be approachable today, with the structural integrity to cellar elegantly over the next 10–12 years.
  • Western Pairing: Pappardelle with wild mushroom ragù, roasted duck breast, pork loins rubbed with rosemary and fennel seed, or semi-aged Pecorino cheese.
  • Asian Pairing: 豉油雞 (Soy Sauce Chicken), 明炉燒鴨 (Roasted Duck), or Sautéed Lamb with Scallions (蔥爆羊肉).

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