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Biondi Santi Fascia Rosso di Montalcino Italy 2014

Biondi Santi Fascia Rosso di Montalcino Italy 2014

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(Wine Advocate Score 93) The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Annata is a beautiful wine laced with ethereal balsam tones, licorice, cola, dark fruit and forest floor. The acidity is evident but well-integrated within the thick textural richness of the wine. It closes slowly and quietly with a surprising flurry of delicate floral notes that pop up at the end. This well-built wine will hold for many years. Drink: 2017-2030.

Perhaps the most iconic image in Montalcino is that of the lanky Franco Biondi Santi walking, cane in hand, down the cypress-lined drive that leads to his beloved Il Greppo estate. It's painful to think he no longer exists in that tight corridor of shade between the trees. The Brunello pioneer died in April 2013, at 92 years of age. Today, the imposing figure who greets you past the tree line belongs to his son, Jacopo Biondi Santi. The legacy of this estate and the guardianship of Montalcino-s most prized wine tradition now rests squarely on his shoulders. "I'm not afraid to say it," Jacopo confides: "I'm daunted by the enormity of this responsibility." This conversation was the single most precious moment I experienced during my last trip to Montalcino. Like many others, I was concerned about the generational shift at Il Greppo. Dottore Biondi Santi did everything himself and who could ever take his place? More importantly: Would the wines change? My exchange with Jacopo and that glimmer of vulnerability assured me that Il Greppo would be just fine. Jacopo has made some small tweaks in the winery. Most notably he brought his bladder press over from Castello di Montepo to replace his father's traditional press. Otherwise, the Old World formality of the winery is exactly the same.
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At Greppo it is also produced a Rosso di Montalcino which is made from vineyards over 10 years of age. It is a direct descendant of Greppo¬ù Brunello, but made in those years with less than ideal weather conditions, when Biondi Santi deems the organoleptic characteristics of the wine insufficient for the production of Brunello di Montalcino. None-the-less this makes for a splendid Rosso di Montalcino, which is aged 12 months in Slavonian oak casks.

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