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Salon Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Champagne France 2006

Salon Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Champagne France 2006

HK$4,500
HK$4,500
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(Wine Advocate Score 96+) The 2006 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut has a shining silver-golden color, the bubbles are tiny and enormously fine?Ä?they probably wouldn't stop rising from the bottom of the glass if you left the wine in it instead of drinking it. On the nose, there is a fascinating, pure and fresh bouquet with acacia, chalk, incense and concentrated lemon flavors. The 2006 is mouthfilling, round and elegant on the palate; it is dense and tight but also fresh and cleansing, provided with great finesse, mineral complexity, length and structure. The finish is clear and aromatic, round and well balanced, slightly creamy, very intense, greatly finessed and truly elegant, with stimulating salinity in the aftertaste. Being restrained and generous at the same time, the 2006 Salon is a great promise rather than the greatest drinking pleasure today. Although I tasted the Salon several times over 36 hours, there is a chalky layer on everything, a taste of a wet sponge, soaked with a lot of chalk for the moment but also ultra-dark chocolate flavors (with at least 80% cacao) and candied lemon and orange zests. The truth or the soul of the 2006 Salon, I guess, is rather indicated in the almost emptied glass, from which ripe, yellow-fleshed fruit aromas (plums!), brioche, marzipan and floral flavors come out, reflecting a perfect ripeness of fruit as well as the great terroir of Le Mesnil. So, please, don't drink the 2006 straight after opening the bottle. Take a good Champagne glass and give the wine a while to breathe and open up. The aging capacity of the 2006 should be tremendous here.
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THE WINE

All Salon is as one, defined in the singular: a single grape, Chardonnay; a single terroir, the Cote des Blancs, a single ‘cru’ village, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a single year, that of its vintage. And yet each vintage – and not every year can be called a vintage, only the greatest years - is different from any other. The vagaries of climate, something in the air, that tiny something that can change everything: this is where Salon’s personality is forged. And Salon 2006 is a great romantic, a lyrical soul, marching to the beat of its own drum. Never mind eleven years spent ageing in the cool silence of the cellars in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Salon 2006 surges forth unbridled, with the spirit of youthful rebellion. Just imagine the promise of the years ahead!

THE VINTAGE

August was horrid, cold and rainy, after the perfect sunshine and warmth of June and July. But in the end it was all a false alert, the fear came to nothing, no disease problems. September arrived and set fair, with cool mornings and glorious days that continued throughout harvest, up to 2nd October: the grapes reached optimum ripeness, giving musts with magnificent sugar levels balanced by fine acidities, a hallmark of the vintage. Yields? Neither too big nor too small. The result: Salon 2006, a great vintage with a tremendous future ahead.

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