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Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses Extra Brut Champagne 2009

Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses Extra Brut Champagne 2009

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(Wine Advocate Score 96+) The 2009 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of warm bread, fresh peach, ripe citrus fruit, lemon confit and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a muscular, tight-knit core that's multidimensional and intensely mineral, concluding with a long finish. Only 20,000 bottles were produced—in other words, half the legal yield. This is a serious, structured Clos des Goisses that transcends the vintage's tendency to facility, and it will merit and reward extended bottle age.

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Using grapes from one of the oldest and most famous walled vineyards of the area, not to mention the steepest (45 degree), Philipponnat has created an exceptionally powerful wine for the Champagne area. With its fully walled 5.5 hectares, the Clos des Goisses stands on the finest slope in Mareuil-sur-Ay. The house has owned this remarkable vineyard for nearly a century; facing due south, it is unique and instantly recognisable for its extreme steepness.