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Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses Extra Brut Champagne 2010

Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses Extra Brut Champagne 2010

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(Wine Advocate Score 94) Disgorged in March 2019 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, there are a mere 5,000 bottles of the 2010 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses. Describing the year as one that tended to be "fat and heavy," Charles Philipponnat explained that he feared the resulting wine might be too aromatic and evolve too rapidly, so he made a rigorous selection of only the freshest, liveliest lots—though he now regrets not making a little more. Offering up aromas of pear, waxy citrus fruit, fresh pastry, vanilla pod and a light touch of smoky reduction, the wine is full-bodied, broad and layered, with a textural, highly concentrated profile, ripe acids and a precise, mineral finish. Philipponnat is happy with the result but suspects that the wine will become buttery with bottle age and that it will always be a little atypical.

 

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Using grapes from one of the oldest and most famous walled vineyards of the area, not to mention the steepest (45 degree), Philipponnat has created an exceptionally powerful wine for the Champagne area. With its fully walled 5.5 hectares, the Clos des Goisses stands on the finest slope in Mareuil-sur-Ay. The house has owned this remarkable vineyard for nearly a century; facing due south, it is unique and instantly recognisable for its extreme steepness.