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Domaine du Pelican Arbois Grand Curoulet Savagnin Jura France 2019

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Grand Curoulet Savagnin Jura France 2019

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Ten wines to try in 2022

Savagnin is a very old variety that has mutated wildly: Gewurztraminer is genetically the same, although it couldn't taste more different.  In the Jura it's the grape of Vin Jaune, but this version had no flor and is intense and smoky, with flavours of fennel and yellow plums, salt and capers, tarragon and stones.  It's long, tense and complex.  Domaine du Pelican (since you ask) takes its name from the bird on the crest of the city of Arbois; the pelican belonged to Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor, and his wife Mary of Burgundy.  The bird died, and the citizens feared they would be blamed.  Moral: never look after a pet for your boss.

(Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine 2022)

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