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Salon Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Champagne France 2007

Salon Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Champagne France 2007

HK$4,600
HK$4,600
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(Wine Advocate Score 96) The superb 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil wafts from the glass with a beautiful bouquet of crushed chalk, lemon oil, crisp green apple, white flowers and brioche. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with bright acids, a tight-knit core and a brisk mousse, concluding with a long, chalky and bone-dry finish. After the comparatively broad and fleshy 2002, 2004 and 2006 vintages, the 2007 Salon seems to mark a return to a racier, more precise style—though admittedly that's in keeping with the style of the vintage—that makes me anticipate the release of the 2008 all the more eagerly.
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THE WINE

Salon is defined by its absolute singularity : a single varietal, chardonnay ; a single terroir, the Côte des Blancs ; a single cru, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a single year, that of its vintage. Every vintage – for not all years can be a vintage, only the greatest years – is different from any other. Every Salon year incarnates a perfect dream, respecting nature and the earth. Elever un vin – that peculiarly French concept of ‘bringing up’ a wine, is in fact an extreme form of educational refinement, one that respects and honours the distinct personality and characteristics of each one. And the task of steering the wine towards its ultimate potential falls to the men and women of Salon. Glowing like some perfectly brought-up young angel, Salon 2007 gives us a glimpse of its future grace, gleaming with light and beauty.

THE VINTAGE

After a mild winter, April was magnificent, and flowering was perfect. June and July brought long days of bright sunshine, the light reverberating on the chalky soil and providing vital residual warmth for the subsequent chilly August. With nature still on-side, the sensible decision would have been to harvest then and there, but then second thoughts….patience! Out came the sun, that great game-changer, charging everything with light and energy. As an uncertain season reached full term, the vines yielded a crop of perfectly ripe grapes, and in decent quantities too. The resulting musts were rich yet not excessive in sugar, with fine acidity to balance. Now for time to work its magic.

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